How Do I Get My Cat to Play?

Cat personalities differ considerably, but most felines enjoy a good play session. So, what do you do if your cat won't play with you?

Most cats do not respond to toys, but to human interaction USING toys. Very few adult cats will play on their own. Yes, kittens will play with virtually anything on their own, but once they reach adulthood, their energy is devoted to hunting, not playing. Playtime for adults has to emulate the process they'd experience hunting prey in the wild.

In order to coax a cat to play, even a senior cat, you have to do a little trial and error to see what they respond to. Most cats love wand toys, so that's where I usually start. You want to tease her with it, dragging it around corners so she has to get up and move to see where it went. Cats are very curious, so moving a toy in such a way almost always piques their interest.

The key really is your own attention and interaction. A toy is only fun when it's powered by a human to emulate how a cat's prey might move. We want to lure them into the hunt. Once you see playing as hunting, it can help you to understand how to play.

This still doesn't guarantee that every cat will engage in play. You have to be patient and offer it before mealtimes. If they turn away, don't give up. Just offer it regularly and see if they’ll come around. You may find that you actually have to teach each cat to play more. Of course, they should always have the choice to refuse. You don't want to force it on them or they’ll associate negative feelings with their toys. Just patiently and kindly offer to play with them at about the same time each day and you may find that they will start to play more often.

---

Author: Tom Kirby, UW-AAB - cat behaviorist

I’m certified in applied animal behavior and have years of experience solving the specific problems faced by cat caregivers like you every day.

I’m here to help you and your feline friends live happier, healthier lives together.

CLICK HERE to get help with your cat today!

Cat Food Vs. Cat Feed - What's the Difference?

Most pet "foods" on the market are really pet "feeds". What's the difference? I'm glad you asked! A quick Google search reveals that food is defined as: “any nutritious substance that people or animals eat or drink, or that plants absorb, in order to maintain life and growth.” The same site defines feed as: “food for domestic animals.”

The truth is that feed and food are two very different things. Both provide basic sustenance, but at different degrees of effectiveness. To get to the heart of the matter, we have to look at the usage and connotations of each word.

Food is generally thought of as something that people eat. Our concept of food is that it is delicious and nutritious. It brings to mind family meals around a table at Thanksgiving, or at a favorite restaurant. When we think of food, we usually think of the meals that we enjoy most and the nutrients that sustain us.

Feed is something that we throw down for animals to keep them alive just long enough for us to harvest something of value from them. That something is usually their very bodies. Feed is cheap. It's neither delicious nor nutritious beyond the very base needs of the animals who are being fed. It's often made up of recycled garbage left over from human food production or other industries. I recently saw a plea for citizens to bring in palm fronds downed during a storm so that they could be used as cattle feed. Feed is roadkill. Feed is diseased waste. Feed is whatever can be forced on a starving animal to keep them alive until they’re large enough to be slaughtered, and feed is where the pet food industry began.

Let's look at the history of one of the most famous of pet food brands, Purina. According to Wikipedia:

“Ralston Purina traces its roots to 1894, when founder William H. Danforth established the animal feed company Purina Mills. William H. Danforth, partnered with George Robinson and William Andrews, entered the business of feeding farm animals by founding the Robinson-Danforth Commission Company. The name was changed to Ralston Purina in 1902. Its predominant brand for each animal was generally referred to as “Chow”; hence “Purina Horse Chow”, “Purina Dog Chow”, “Purina Cat Chow”, “Purina Rabbit Chow”, “Purina Pig Chow”, and even “Purina Monkey Chow”.”

The fundamental difference between food and feed is reinforced throughout the article, and in my opinion, throughout the culture of Purina. Of course, Purina is just one of several big companies that own many different brands. Most of these big companies buy up smaller brands to own more market share, but keep the brands separate in the minds of consumers in order to create the illusion of choice in the marketplace.

The marketing of all of these substandard feeds has been so successful that many cat caregivers have been convinced that these brands offer hearty, nutritious food for their cats. All it takes is a picture of a happy cat on the package alongside images of some delicious-looking human food and most consumers are convinced. Unfortunately, despite the pictures of real food on the outside, what's inside those packages is still low cost animal feed. That’s because it's more profitable.

Regardless of what you think of the meat and dairy industries, you must acknowledge that meat producers are only interested in getting animals to live long enough to be slaughtered for processing. That's a very different agenda from that of cat lovers who want our feline friends to live happily for as long as they can.

I have no doubt that the pet food industry will continue their profitable practices as long as consumers keep buying. Every time you spend a dollar, you're casting a vote, and when you spend your money on substandard feeds, you're voting for this garbage and potentially harming your pet at the same time.

If you'd like to learn how to choose better nutrition for your pet, check out the excellent resources at the following links:

http://www.naturalcatcareblog.com/2010/12/the-7-best-natural-commercial-cat-foods-so-far/

https://catinfo.org/

http://truthaboutpetfood.com/

Wishing you and your feline friends all the best!

---

Author: Tom Kirby, UW-AAB - cat behaviorist

I’m certified in applied animal behavior and have years of experience solving the specific problems faced by cat caregivers like you every day.

I’m here to help you and your feline friends live happier, healthier lives together.

CLICK HERE to get help with your cat today!

Emergency Evacuation Kit for Cats

Most of us suffer from "it won't happen to me" syndrome. You hear it on every TV news report. "I never imagined this would happen here" or "He was such a nice cat who kept to himself." Okay, well maybe not that last one, but you get the point. After seeing wildfires jumping freeways in LA, tornadoes ripping their way across Tennessee, and hurricanes blasting Florida beaches, we're here to tell you that you're better off being prepared.

Below is the Kitty Help Desk evacuation kit - everything I think you'll need in the event you need to bug out quickly with your feline friends. We recommend that you get a plastic storage bin and have this kit ready to go at a moment's notice. You'll be glad that you did.

• Food & Water - It may go without saying, but you need to make sure you pack at least two weeks' worth of food and water along with some stainless-steel bowls. Make sure the food doesn't expire by rotating the portions you keep in your kit every few months.

• Medications - Whatever medications you normally administer to your cats, you need to make sure you pack a two-week supply in your kit. Check it frequently to make sure it doesn't expire before you use it.

• Litter & Litter Box - While there are some small, collapsible travel litter boxes out there, I recommend bringing along a duplicate of your cat's favorite box along with the usual litter. Change will not be welcomed in the midst of the chaos of an evacuation, so anything that reminds a cat of home will be helpful in maintaining their sanity and your own. Also, don't forget a litter scoop, paper towels, and some small trash bags.

• Carriers - You need one carrier per cat. Soft sided carriers work well and collapse so you can store them easily. Even cardboard carriers will do in a pinch.

• Harness & Leash - This is optional, but it can be a godsend if you need to let a crying cat out of their carrier for a bit just to visit the litter box or blow off steam. Do harness training now and reap the rewards later.

• Familiar Smells - Cats love their home territory and they generally dislike leaving it. Bring a little bit of home with you by including a blanket that has familiar scents. This probably wouldn't get packed in advance but would be something you'd grab at the last minute.

• Nail Clippers - No matter what's going on out in the world, those cat nails will continue to grow. Make sure you're prepared to keep them trimmed.

• Brush - All daily brushing rituals should continue. They will help to calm your cats and they'll remove excess hair that could result in hairballs.

• Scratching Surface - Cats have to scratch in order to shed their nail sheaths. Make it easier on them (and the furniture wherever you're staying) by providing a solution. Corrugated cardboard scratchers work very well and are lightweight and portable.

• Vaccination Records - In the event you need to see a new veterinarian or have to seek refuge in an emergency shelter, you may need to provide vaccination records. Make sure you have paperwork showing your pets' most recent vaccinations.

• Printed Pictures - Sometimes a new situation will frighten a cat and the worst will happen - he or she will escape. Be prepared with a couple of printed pictures of your feline friends that you can show around in the event they get lost.

• ID - Make sure every cat has a collar with a current phone number. I recommend Safe Cat collars with embroidered names and numbers. You may also want to make sure your cats are microchipped and that your own ID info is up to date.

• Emergency Contacts - In this day of smart phones, most of us can hardly remember our own phone numbers, let alone someone else's. Be sure to print out phone numbers for your veterinarian and any other folks you might need when your phone battery dies.

These are just some ideas to get you started. You know your feline friends better than anyone. Think about what might comfort them if you had to leave your home unexpectedly. Make plans now so that when an emergency happens you don't have to cover all your bases at once. There's often a very short lead time for evacuation orders. Be ready!

---

Author: Tom Kirby, UW-AAB - cat behaviorist

I’m certified in applied animal behavior and have years of experience solving the specific problems faced by cat caregivers like you every day.

I’m here to help you and your feline friends live happier, healthier lives together.

CLICK HERE to get help with your cat today!

Some Cats Have Trouble Knowing How Much is Too Much

A cat who doesn't have the benefits of a mother early on in life can often develop a few behavioral issues. Teaching a motherless cat not to play too rough can be a long process. Mother cats and feline siblings basically tell kittens when they go too far. Mothers usually bop them, and siblings often return the attack. This is fine if you're a cat, but when you're a gigantic, all-powerful human, any kind of forceful physical response can induce fear. Cats should never be struck in any way. Even playful strikes will either convey aggression or an invitation to play rough.

Never push them away. This is a sign to the kitten that you're inviting rough play. Instead, just walk away. Leaving him alone in the room is the best option, though I realize this presents a problem if you're in bed. Still, these are things than can be reinforced throughout the day. You have to look for the warning signs of aggressive play and redirect it at all times. Every slip up when you or a family member think the kitten’s attacks are cute, is a step backwards in their training. When you see them "stalking" your feet or sneaking up on you, simply redirect the behavior with a toy they like.

In addition, I encourage you not to ever use your hands or feet as a toy for any cat. Always direct them toward a toy that they can eagerly sink their teeth and claws into without hurting anyone.

One other thing that might help is the development of a bedtime routine. If you want to go to bed at 11PM, have a vigorous play session with your cat around 10PM each night. Really get them going and let them exercise their hunting instincts. When they’re done playing, feed them their evening meal or a snack. Then it's time for bed and the cat should groom and then go to sleep. They may get up again during the night, but the more you repeat this schedule, the better they’ll be at following it.

---

Author: Tom Kirby, UW-AAB - cat behaviorist

I’m certified in applied animal behavior and have years of experience solving the specific problems faced by cat caregivers like you every day.

I’m here to help you and your feline friends live happier, healthier lives together.

CLICK HERE to get help with your cat today!

How to Help a Cat with Shelter Fatigue

Most shelters are awful places for cats to be. They get locked in a tiny box with lots of scary sounds and bad smells that keep them from ever feeling safe. But what if a cat becomes accustomed to life in the shelter?

The first thing to do is relax. If you're stressed by the situation, your cat will certainly pick up on your feelings and react accordingly. At this point, it's best to treat them as if they were a feral cat. Let them set the pace for your interaction and they’ll come out of their shell gradually over time. 

There are a couple of things you can do to help them along. In a shelter environment, most cats put up a number of defenses to protect themselves. One of these is the need to retreat and hide in a safe place with close walls. Give them their own little spot where you never interact with him. It can be a small cat cube or just a box with some holes cut in it. You might just crack a closet door so he can go in and out. But whatever you do, when he's there, you should never try to touch him or move him. He needs his safe hidey hole in order to gain the confidence to come out. Just knowing that he can retreat there can make a big difference for him.

Be careful to only use closed hands when offering contact to a shy cat. To a human, a fist means the threat of violence, but to a cat, it looks more like a paw. An open hand looks more like an attacking claw and is much more threatening to a cat. Add to that the fact that cats are often handled a lot at shelters, and you end up with a cat who may actually have developed a fear of grabby human hands.

One exercise that I've found to be very effective is to sit on the floor of the room where the cat is and read quietly to them. Let them get used to your voice and your presence while you're focused on reading. Don't look at them or reach out to them, even if they initiate contact. This is how cats in the wild indicate their trustworthiness. It may take many sessions, but the cat should eventually reach out to you. 

It will usually be two steps forward and one step back for cats like this until they finally overcome their psychological hurdles. In order for you to be successful, you need to detach yourself from any particular outcome. If you're disappointed at their reaction, they will sense that. Try and be positive and take it as it comes. 

I encourage you to try and be nonchalant about the situation when the cat’s hiding. Just go about your business and try your best to be optimistic, especially when you're around them. Believe me when I say that they’ll pick up on that. These things often require a lot of time--sometimes a year or more for significant progress. Relax and enjoy the time spent with your feline friend. With a lot of patience and a relaxed attitude, you can work wonders with them.

---

Author: Tom Kirby, UW-AAB - cat behaviorist

I’m certified in applied animal behavior and have years of experience solving the specific problems faced by cat caregivers like you every day.

I’m here to help you and your feline friends live happier, healthier lives together.

CLICK HERE to get help with your cat today!